27 February 2011

We are back

VIETNAM TRIP

Lean laconic and looking for a fight

I remember back in the 60’s when I used to get Time magazine these were the words they printed about the US Marines landing at Da Nang.

Unhappily for them they met an enemy who were diminutive, determined and dangerous, dedicated to defending their homeland – as we now know, not really for Communism but for themselves and their families.

As it happens in the long run the Americans have won as Vietnam is not a Communist country but a mixed mainly capitalist economy one party dictatorship. I was never in favour of our involvement (or that of the US) in Vietnam. Not only because I thought they were wrong but I was of the age that could go off as cannon fodder.

Anyway - our journey started:

We left NZ for 20 days in Vietnam (5 at TVNZ’s cost, 15 at our own expense).

At Sydney Airport we queued for 30 minutes at the wrong transit Terminal. No signs. As we left a large group arrived who had been at the other Terminal. When we complained the Info person agreed and said people do it all the time but Management wouldn’t put up signs!!

The world has gone security mad. We go through one lot, 20 metres on another lot, go around a corner another lot wants to search bags. This is constant – go through one lot and within sight of the last lot you repeat it.!!!

VIETNAM: (Viet = the Viet people <> Nam = South Asia)

General: Traffic: Madness, motorbikes everywhere; they drive on wrong side of the road and on footpaths, ignore traffic lights and pedestrian crossings, no lights on at night – the rules are that there are no rules. As per usual in these sorts of places all manner of uniformed military/police are hanging about, all doing nothing. Eventually we worked out the Traffic Police, who mostly ignore it all, were those dressed in light brown uniforms.

During the 6 days of the New Year Festival (Tet) 288 were killed, 359 injured nationwide.

Toilets and showers are combined in many hotels. Weird – the toilet paper often got wet??

Footpaths are so badly in need of repair that the roads, even with all the traffic, were safer. More expensive than we thought. Cheap but not as cheap as when we went to Bali plus some upmarket items (tours/entrance fees) were expensive.

The tourist places don’t have any idea about marketing or cleanliness. All overstaffed; 3 - 4 people sell the ticket, another 20 metres on another 3 - 4 rips it off, another 20 metres another couple check it. We bought some goods in Ho Chi Minh City (still called Saigon by everybody but the officials) and it was the Soviet GUM store in action – one takes the order, one issues a receipt, one takes the money , then you take the receipt to another who gets the goods.

Meals never arrived together and were never hot, warm was the best they could do.

Taxis: Seat belts are ignored – in one it had been dismantled for parts. They were also generally more expensive than we assumed.

Rip Offs: Ripped off twice; taxi in Saigon and one hotel there charged us for water from the mini-bar after telling us it was free (cost US$9) and not on the bar list. They also told us we had to move from the hotel we had booked to another as they claimed they had electrical problems - although they were only a couple of minutes apart. But it also had a sink that didn’t drain and took a couple of attempts to get it put right, plus they didn’t order a taxi on the final day as we requested then they told him to take us to the International rather than the Domestic terminal.

In the end we tried to use Mailingh Taxis who seemed trustworthy.

Not really a rip off as we only paid US$5pp (which included a small lunch) but took a boat trip to some tombs and a floating village in Hue. They all advertise the village but the guide said they hadn’t been there for 10 years – who knows. Said a maximum of 25 people but ended up closer to 40. While we were there 12 tourists died in a boating accident.

Smoking: Brilliant tax gathering system as they gather the Vietnamese Dong (about 20,000 to US $) and pay out nothing in Health Care. It was a smokers paradise as they smoked everywhere, especially in restaurants.

The Prize: We went to the ‘Airbender’ guy who was really a Chi Ti/massage expert and had an interesting couple of hours or so with him and his wife and we assume his daughter. A bit of a foul-up at the start. The Hotel took us down but his house was all locked up and later we found he had gone to the Hotel so we organised it for the next day.

We were not met at Hoi An as the hotel had been advised the wrong flight and we had to pay US$21 in taxi fares ourselves but we may get this back from TVNZ.

Vietnam Air: Good meals and service although checking of seat belts, seats upright etc lacked some certainty. Some people wanted to store stuff in the aisles.

Hanoi: Quite cool and upon our return after going south it was misty and slightly rainy.

The first time we stayed near the St Joseph cathedral but the constant tolling of the bells and the loudspeaker broadcast of the service on Sunday was a little annoying. We looked at the Opera house where we saw about 20 weddings were being photographed outside and on the steps. They put great store in having a flash wedding.

Very few rubbish bins – just throw it on the street. They have a rubbish collector who pushes a huge barrow and when she (usually a she) reaches a business place or every 20-30 metres she has a little bell she dongs. They then rush out and throw it on the roadside so she can sort it into her barrow.

Hoi An: A very enjoyable place. Did a river trip, visited a pottery place where Christine made a great piece. Visited China Beach where the TV series of the 70’s (?) was based. They had private beaches – the only place we have struck that apart from the US.

Went to a Silk Farm and saw the silk being made (farmed might be a better word).

Went to the clothes part and while we were there suddenly opera was being sung. Some of the visitors were part of an US opera group and they sang a couple of songs.

On our last day we had to get a taxi back at the hotels expense as the Shuttle didn’t turn up. When we arrived the girl (they all looked about 12) on Reception ripped into the boy about not collecting us.

Ho Chi Minh CitySaigon: Hot, muggy and vibrant. Aggressive sellers. We were lucky being there at the end of Tet as the lights were still up. By the time we left they were down. Went to the tunnels and war museums which were spoilt by the propaganda. I went down the tunnels which was a squeeze. Got into a ‘Vietcong foxhole’ but had to be helped out – must be getting old.

Hue: Great Citadel although poorly looked after and dirty. We hired a couple of Cyclo drivers to take us around.

Walking around in the late afternoon we found the soccer stadium and a woman waved us in. No cost so we watched Hue win 3 – 0. Bugles and drums going non-stop and along with a vocal crowd, it was entertaining.

Saw a terrific banana tree with leaves well over 2 metres although all the bananas are small. Visited Ho Chi Minh’s parents house which isn’t being looked after.

Walking along a guy was peeing in the street. A few seconds later he approached Christine offering her a Cyclo ride. I said she should have just shaken his hand!

CAMBODIA:

Very hot and humid but a great hotel – it was 3 star but really 5 star in our book – all for NZ$14-00 per day including breakfast. We changed US$60 at the airport as we thought we would have to pay the taxi but we were met and we found that they mostly deal in USD so we struggled to spend it.

Angor Wat: Before we went we met an American who said it was better than Machu Pichu. It wasn’t near it. Nice but we spent 2 days out of 3 there. The Lonely Planet says take 3 days. One day was enough.

Had to pay about US$40 pp for the 2 days at the Temples plus we had to pay our driver although it was so much easier with him who arranged everything like getting from one temple to another as well as lunch.

To get the entry Visa we had to pay US$20pp to enter the country and a departure tax of US$25pp. Quite costly. They took a photo when you entered and compared that against their database when you left. Very efficient as they are handling 2 million visitors pa.

Took a Tuk=Tuk ride around Siem Reap and it would have been better to spend a day there than the temples.

Tons of hawkers of course – everything only a dollar until you went to buy. One was playing a local instrument outside a temple and I mentioned to Christine it sounded like a bagpipe and he moved onto playing “Loch Lomond”. Almost made you want to buy one – but I didn’t.

Went to a floating Village – again relatively expensive at US$25 pp. Saw a crocodile and pig farm, visited a floating school and bought about US$25-00 worth of books/pencils to donate. Kids come along side the boat with snakes writhing around their bodies hoping to get $$ . Yuk.

A few power surges and lights flickering from time to time.

Unlike Vietnam but I could go back to Cambodia.

Earthquake. We got back from a day long trip and I turned on the TV.

This hotel had no BBC or CNN but it had Ch 9 Australia.

But when I turned it on I saw a news ticker saying an earthquake in Manila (it was 5.3 with no loss of life) then changing up looking for Ch 9 I heard in German about one in N.Z. I thought that's strange - have they got it mixed up but soon found the real problem was back home as soon as I found Ch9.

Meantime Christine checked her phone and we got the text from Angela.

Ch 9 then went to the TV One 6 PM bulletin and we watched right through until 11.30 NZ time.

Luckily so far everybody we know in Christchurch is safe.

Photos - will load these up next time.